![]() Stringing is also a problem when making prints with thinner layer heights. Larger prints are prone to warping and have occasional blemishes, especially if they are complex designs like clock gear. There’s little to no stringing, and contours are smooth even with more complex models. They mostly come out clean and with lots of detail. Many users reported that the overall print quality is good for small objects. Belts that don’t use timing can drop straight down and probably ruin the model being printed as well as the print bed. The unit equally features a timing belt inside the extruder, which prevents it from dropping straight down. Linear rails tend to facilitate fast and fluid motion, which results in accurate movement and precise printing. The Cetus 3D printer is also equipped with stainless steel linear rails on each axis as the basic motion system in which the extruder and print bed move. Switching between the nozzles is easy and takes only a few minutes. Moreover, the unit uses a direct drive extruder, which works better with flexible filament (TPU) than Bowden style extruders. This combination of different nozzles and resolutions makes the Cetus 3D printer versatile enough to work with a wide variety of filaments. The 0.44mm nozzle is the default hot end that comes pre-installed on the extruder, and it’s meant for general purpose printing. The 0.2mm nozzle provides fine details and accurate prints while the 0.6mm delivers less detail, but it’s fast and ideal for structural parts. You can easily adjust the layer height to your preference or to achieve specific results. They can reach a maximum temperature of 500☏ (260☌) and offer various layer resolutions, including 350, 300, 250, 200, 100, 70, and 50 microns.Įach nozzle has its preset profile and dictates how much filament is extruded to print. The printer utilizes a single-extruder system and comes with three interchangeable nozzles with diameters of 0.6mm, 0.4mm, and 0.2mm. They come in a wide range of colors and have low-warp and low-odor properties. The supported filament diameter is 1.75mm and the unit has an open-source design, so you can use third parties cartridges without any issues although the Tiertime offers its own Cetus-optimized PLA filament in 700g spools. Its open-frame design allows you to see the whole printing process, but it exposes the hot extruder, which is not only unsafe but also puts the vital components of the printer as well as the printed model at risk of getting damaged by external factors. It’s also very light, which, plus its small size makes it easy to carry and move around. It can fit on a desk without taking up much space. ![]() It has a small footprint (13 x 12.9 x 9.4 inches). ![]() The whole unit is generally strong and durable. The build plate is also a 3mm aluminum plate. It’s a rigid machine consisting of a thick aluminum frame and stainless steel components like the linear rails and the brackets that hold the frame together. However, the overall build quality is great. There’s nothing sleek or striking about it’s look. Supported Filaments: PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, TPE, PET.Build Plate: non-heated 3mm aluminum plate.Extruder Nozzle Diameter: 0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm (interchangeable).Leveling the bed can be tricky for some.The print bed coating leaves small indentations in prints.Larger prints tend to warp and have blemishes.(FWIW, my main issue was weird Z-heights, where say a 30mm tower would print like 2mm too tall. I’m curious if you get this to work-I gave up on Simplif圓D because it wasn’t worth fighting with such an expensive software package, but having Cura as an alternative would be nice on certain prints. I also used just a single M109 command to turn the extruder off at the end. In Simplif圓D, my only heater-related command in my start code was this: M109 S wait for extruder temp to stabilise I’m not sure why that would cause your heater to keep running, though. From here, it seems like the difference is that M109 “blocks” and waits for the temp while the M104 lets the script continue. The biggest heater-related difference I see between your start script and mine is that you’re using multiple M104 and M109 commands, while I only had a single M109. I had 99 problems but a runaway heater wasn’t one. I’m no expert, but I fought with my Cetus and G-code for a few weeks (by way of Simplif圓D). G1 Y20 E2500 F500 Extrude 25mm filament over 90mm Y axis G0 Y10 F500 Move 10mm to get rid of material G1 X2 Y178 F5000 move to back right corner Even when it is completely done with the code. The problem is that, instead of maintaining my print temp, it keeps heating up. So far I have a working start and end sequence.
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